Posted by The orijinal on August 17, 2009, 1:45 amPlease Register and login to reply and use other advanced options
Those of you who have assembled many systems before, may think this a silly
question, but I am unsure if I have the heatsink the right way round, or if
it matters. So I thought I'd ask before proceding further.
I have just purchased an Elite Group motherboard GS7610 Ultra it is this one
I have only built a couple of systems before, (Well three actually) and they
have been Abits (socket A), and it has to be said, that their manuals
clearly detail every step, including which way to put the heatsink..But
there is nothing in the manual of the Elite board about installing the HS. I
have checked their on-line version of the manual, the FAQ,and all over their
site, but there is nothing about thte HS.
I then checked the site of the heatsink manufacturers Akasa. No joy there
either. It is this one here:-
I tried to use logic, and have found lugs on the plastic surround, which
each have a screw in them. I presume they are for a different type of HS.
So, I hooked the side of the HS with the black plastic lever nearest to the
edge of the board. It seems secure, and the HS is the same both sides,
unlike the socket A HS that I encoutered before.
If I have got it wrong, and have to reverse it, should I clean off the pre-
applied thermal compoud and start again?
Posted by Paul on August 17, 2009, 3:29 am
The orijinal wrote:
I couldn't find any document on the Akasa site, to help with that heatsink.
The plastic retention frame around the CPU socket, has three tabs
on either side. You can find heatsinks with three tabs, or heatsinks
with one tab, on each side. The one tab clip, may place a little more
strain on the tab it is using. But if the heatsink is a small one
to begin with, they may not have used a large retention force. (There
have been heatsink products, which use way too much retention force,
and after a couple years, the single tab snaps.)
The two screws, may fasten the upper retention frame, to a stiffener
underneath the motherboard. If that was the case, it would help prevent
the motherboard from flexing, due to the stresses.
Some heatsinks install, by removing the retention frame and screws, and
bolting the heatsink to the plate underneath. So there are products,
where the existing frame may be removed. But since your heatsink has
a clip intended for tabs, and your retention frame has tabs, you can use
what is there.
It looks like there are two ways to put the heatsink on. What you'd normally
do, is use your eyeball, to judge whether the center of the heatsink
is offset or not, from the center of the socket. That will tell you whether
the thing only fits one way, from the perspective of max area of heatsink
touching the processor. Some heatsink setups, if you rotate the heatsink
180 degrees, only part of the contact area touches processor, which
reduces the efficiency. The time to check that, is while it is still apart.
If you're a home builder, normally you keep a $5 tube of heatsink
compound handy, for times like this. The original thermal compound
would not be as effective, if it is torn up or scratched off. It
depends on what percentage of paste remains, as to how much of a
difference that would make.
The other thing to consider, is whether the plastic handle on the clip,
is going to bump into the Northbridge heatsink or not. So maybe there
isn't room anyway, to use either orientation, and only one
The S754 processor should be protected thermally, unlike the
early socket 462 processors. So really, what this boils down to,
is a matter of convenience. If you're going to take it apart again,
it is better to do that before wasting the time assembling everything.
If it doesn't look that far off center, such that you have good contact
area either way, you can leave it for another time.
Posted by The orijinal on August 17, 2009, 10:17 pm
You're right! It didn't occur to check the underside.
Before putting HS in, it *looked* pretty central, but of course once mated
withe cpu it isn't possible to tell
visually how good the contact is, and there is no "wriggle" room within the
frame. I might have removed the frame had I thought to ask *before*, so that
I could check. But I have to keep making mistakes in order to learn. :-)
Thanks for that link. I notice its arctic silver, which I did have at some
point in the past, but can't find it. amongst my computer stuff. I have got
two unopened tubes of Manhattan thermal grease. Any good? Or would you
really recommend I abandon it in favour of arctic silver?
There is *just* room I think, but I opted for what I thought was easier. I'm
not the most dexterous of souls. :-(
I'll sleep on it for a day or two. Impatient as I am, I like to do things
properly. Already, I'm thinking it doesn't quite look right, as the power
lead exits the same side as the plastic clip, and has a longer journey to
the fan header.
Thank you very much for your reply, and clarifying my thoughts a little.
Posted by Paul on August 17, 2009, 11:04 pm
The orijinal wrote:
Thermal pastes are within a few degrees of one another, in terms
of effectiveness. If you check the ingredients, they use things like
boron nitride, as a thermal conductor. Even a silver compound, is not
pure silver, and uses other things as well.
What you don't want in a thermal paste, is something which is watery
and tends to flow out of the joint within just a few days. Some pastes
change a bit chemically, after a few days, which further enhances the
"stays put" aspect.
In terms of the amount to apply, first you do a test fitting, and
see if the stuff gushes out of the joint. If so, you've applied too
much. Some application notes suggest applying a grain of rice sized
quantity, and seeing how far it spreads in a circle, as a means to
determine the right dosage. Take the thing apart again, and then apply
proportionately more paste, so that it spreads right out to the
edge of the joint when under compression. You should be able to
see some paste in the gap when you're finished (look along the side
of the heatsink). Err a little bit on the generous side, as the
objective is to displace any air in the gap. You don't want so much
of it coming out, that it ends up on pins or contacts. The layer of
grease should be thick enough so there is no air in the gap, but no
thicker, since the thicker it gets, the more it insulates thermally.
Metal conducts better than paste, so the less paste/grease in the
sandwich the better. But skimp too much, and there'll be air bubbles
On some processor types, the lid of the processor is convex, and
not lapped flat. That means the contact between the processor and
heatsink, is not flat, and the gap size is not a constant across
the top. That can make it harder to judge the right amount. In the
case of my last build, that even made it hard to figure out whether
I had enough force applied to the heatsink, because it just
didn't sit right. In your case, I'm not expecting that to be
a problem, as I think your CPU is a good flat one.
My worst experience with a heatsink, was one where the aluminum on
the bottom, was resting on the lever that holds the processor in
place, and not sitting on the processor lid. I had to spend 30
minutes using a file, to remove aluminum from that area, so there
was room for the lever. You get extra satisfaction from a build,
if you work up a good sweat because of mechanical design errors...
Posted by kony on August 18, 2009, 4:26 pm
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