Posted by JD on June 18, 2010, 12:29 amPlease Register and login to reply and use other advanced options
Hi Experts,
Yesterday was a bad one for me. I added a plug from a second computer to
a robust Trip Lite Super 10 strip and a computer that was already
attached to that strip, and running, suddenly stopped working. I tried
it in another socket but still no start. The power supply for this
apparently-dead computer is a PC Power & Cooling Silencer 600w and very
robust.
I have a tester unit that supposedly checks power supplies when I remove
the cable connection from the mother board and then attach the tester
to that connection. It showed a green light indicating that the supply
is ok. I replaced that PS with another one that also tested ok but it
could not start the computer either. There is no light at all on the
mother board.
I suspect there may be a short in the Tripp Lite.
Suggestions please.
TIA
Posted by philo on June 18, 2010, 5:49 am
On 06/17/2010 11:29 PM, JD wrote:
> Hi Experts,
> Yesterday was a bad one for me. I added a plug from a second computer to
> a robust Trip Lite Super 10 strip and a computer that was already
> attached to that strip, and running, suddenly stopped working. I tried
> it in another socket but still no start. The power supply for this
> apparently-dead computer is a PC Power & Cooling Silencer 600w and very
> robust.
> I have a tester unit that supposedly checks power supplies when I remove
> the cable connection from the mother board and then attach the tester to
> that connection. It showed a green light indicating that the supply is
> ok. I replaced that PS with another one that also tested ok but it could
> not start the computer either. There is no light at all on the mother
> board.
> I suspect there may be a short in the Tripp Lite.
> Suggestions please.
> TIA
then bypass it
Posted by Paul on June 18, 2010, 6:04 am
JD wrote:
> Hi Experts,
>
> Yesterday was a bad one for me. I added a plug from a second computer to
> a robust Trip Lite Super 10 strip and a computer that was already
> attached to that strip, and running, suddenly stopped working. I tried
> it in another socket but still no start. The power supply for this
> apparently-dead computer is a PC Power & Cooling Silencer 600w and very
> robust.
>
> I have a tester unit that supposedly checks power supplies when I remove
> the cable connection from the mother board and then attach the tester
> to that connection. It showed a green light indicating that the supply
> is ok. I replaced that PS with another one that also tested ok but it
> could not start the computer either. There is no light at all on the
> mother board.
>
> I suspect there may be a short in the Tripp Lite.
>
> Suggestions please.
>
> TIA
An outlet tester, is one way to quantify what is happening on an
outlet like on your Tripplite. These are good, when you suspect a
previous home owner tried their hand at outlet wiring. The label
has a list of test results to compare to.
http://www.delstat.com/images/Outlet_Tester.jpg
The Tripplite may have a "breaker button" on the strip, which
opens if there is an overload. You have to push the button or the like,
to reset it.
And plugging the power supply right into the wall,
is another test case to try, as Philo suggested.
Take the Tripplite right out of the picture.
Some motherboards, like Asus brand, have a green LED on the
motherboard that is connected to +5VSB. The power supply
consists of two sections, the +5VSB supply, and the "main
rails" supply. You can verify that +5VSB is flowing, by
seeing the green LED glowing. The computer cannot switch
on via the front button, unless the +5VSB is working. So no
matter how you do it, the availability of +5VSB from the
supply to the motherboard, is a precondition for success.
If the motherboard is some other brand, you may need a
multimeter to probe the +5VSB wire on the power supply
main cable. In some cases, it can even be the silly
button on the front of the computer case, that is broken.
Those switches can be pretty cheap. The switch function
is "momentary contact", and it is up to motherboard
logic to latch the pulse from the switch. If the switch
is completely open circuit, there'll be no pulse when
you press it.
Paul
Posted by JD on June 18, 2010, 4:59 am
Paul wrote:
> JD wrote:
>> Hi Experts,
>>
>> Yesterday was a bad one for me. I added a plug from a second computer
>> to a robust Trip Lite Super 10 strip and a computer that was already
>> attached to that strip, and running, suddenly stopped working. I tried
>> it in another socket but still no start. The power supply for this
>> apparently-dead computer is a PC Power & Cooling Silencer 600w and
>> very robust.
>>
>> I have a tester unit that supposedly checks power supplies when I
>> remove the cable connection from the mother board and then attach the
>> tester to that connection. It showed a green light indicating that the
>> supply is ok. I replaced that PS with another one that also tested ok
>> but it could not start the computer either. There is no light at all
>> on the mother board.
>>
>> I suspect there may be a short in the Tripp Lite.
>>
>> Suggestions please.
>>
>> TIA
>
> An outlet tester, is one way to quantify what is happening on an
> outlet like on your Tripplite. These are good, when you suspect a
> previous home owner tried their hand at outlet wiring. The label
> has a list of test results to compare to.
>
> http://www.delstat.com/images/Outlet_Tester.jpg
>
> The Tripplite may have a "breaker button" on the strip, which
> opens if there is an overload. You have to push the button or the like,
> to reset it.
>
> And plugging the power supply right into the wall,
> is another test case to try, as Philo suggested.
> Take the Tripplite right out of the picture.
>
> Some motherboards, like Asus brand, have a green LED on the
> motherboard that is connected to +5VSB. The power supply
> consists of two sections, the +5VSB supply, and the "main
> rails" supply. You can verify that +5VSB is flowing, by
> seeing the green LED glowing. The computer cannot switch
> on via the front button, unless the +5VSB is working. So no
> matter how you do it, the availability of +5VSB from the
> supply to the motherboard, is a precondition for success.
> If the motherboard is some other brand, you may need a
> multimeter to probe the +5VSB wire on the power supply
> main cable. In some cases, it can even be the silly
> button on the front of the computer case, that is broken.
> Those switches can be pretty cheap. The switch function
> is "momentary contact", and it is up to motherboard
> logic to latch the pulse from the switch. If the switch
> is completely open circuit, there'll be no pulse when
> you press it.
>
> Paul
Thank you Philo, VanguardLH and Paul.
I am on the run at present and this is a short response.
First, the strip is ok. I checked all the sockets with a lamp
and all are continuous at least. I am using another (older) computer
and other components in the strip at present and all are working fine.
I did pull the power cable of the seemingly dead computer out of the
strip and used it in a wall socket - still dead. The motherboard is an
Intel D845GEBV2.
Ironically the older backup computer, that I am now using, dates back to
the 1990s and the motherboard is an Intel AL440LX. This is the most
reliable computer I have ever had. I assembled it from parts that I
bought. I find it remarkably fast and very quiet - a pleasure to use.
More info soon, I hope.
Thanks again all and have a great weekend :-)
Posted by philo on June 18, 2010, 1:38 pm
On 06/18/2010 03:59 AM, JD wrote:
> Paul wrote:
>> JD wrote:
>>> Hi Experts,
>>>
>>> Yesterday was a bad one for me. I added a plug from a second computer
>>> to a robust Trip Lite Super 10 strip and a computer that was already
>>> attached to that strip, and running, suddenly stopped working. I
>>> tried it in another socket but still no start. The power supply for
>>> this apparently-dead computer is a PC Power & Cooling Silencer 600w
>>> and very robust.
>>>
>>> I have a tester unit that supposedly checks power supplies when I
>>> remove the cable connection from the mother board and then attach the
>>> tester to that connection. It showed a green light indicating that
>>> the supply is ok. I replaced that PS with another one that also
>>> tested ok but it could not start the computer either. There is no
>>> light at all on the mother board.
>>>
>>> I suspect there may be a short in the Tripp Lite.
>>>
>>> Suggestions please.
>>>
>>> TIA
>>
>> An outlet tester, is one way to quantify what is happening on an
>> outlet like on your Tripplite. These are good, when you suspect a
>> previous home owner tried their hand at outlet wiring. The label
>> has a list of test results to compare to.
>>
>> http://www.delstat.com/images/Outlet_Tester.jpg
>>
>> The Tripplite may have a "breaker button" on the strip, which
>> opens if there is an overload. You have to push the button or the like,
>> to reset it.
>>
>> And plugging the power supply right into the wall,
>> is another test case to try, as Philo suggested.
>> Take the Tripplite right out of the picture.
>>
>> Some motherboards, like Asus brand, have a green LED on the
>> motherboard that is connected to +5VSB. The power supply
>> consists of two sections, the +5VSB supply, and the "main
>> rails" supply. You can verify that +5VSB is flowing, by
>> seeing the green LED glowing. The computer cannot switch
>> on via the front button, unless the +5VSB is working. So no
>> matter how you do it, the availability of +5VSB from the
>> supply to the motherboard, is a precondition for success.
>> If the motherboard is some other brand, you may need a
>> multimeter to probe the +5VSB wire on the power supply
>> main cable. In some cases, it can even be the silly
>> button on the front of the computer case, that is broken.
>> Those switches can be pretty cheap. The switch function
>> is "momentary contact", and it is up to motherboard
>> logic to latch the pulse from the switch. If the switch
>> is completely open circuit, there'll be no pulse when
>> you press it.
>>
>> Paul
> Thank you Philo, VanguardLH and Paul.
> I am on the run at present and this is a short response.
> First, the strip is ok. I checked all the sockets with a lamp
> and all are continuous at least. I am using another (older) computer
> and other components in the strip at present and all are working fine.
> I did pull the power cable of the seemingly dead computer out of the
> strip and used it in a wall socket - still dead. The motherboard is an
> Intel D845GEBV2.
> Ironically the older backup computer, that I am now using, dates back to
> the 1990s and the motherboard is an Intel AL440LX. This is the most
> reliable computer I have ever had. I assembled it from parts that I
> bought. I find it remarkably fast and very quiet - a pleasure to use.
> More info soon, I hope.
> Thanks again all and have a great weekend :-)
now that the power strip has been seen no to be faulty
try resetting the bios
> Yesterday was a bad one for me. I added a plug from a second computer to
> a robust Trip Lite Super 10 strip and a computer that was already
> attached to that strip, and running, suddenly stopped working. I tried
> it in another socket but still no start. The power supply for this
> apparently-dead computer is a PC Power & Cooling Silencer 600w and very
> robust.
> I have a tester unit that supposedly checks power supplies when I remove
> the cable connection from the mother board and then attach the tester to
> that connection. It showed a green light indicating that the supply is
> ok. I replaced that PS with another one that also tested ok but it could
> not start the computer either. There is no light at all on the mother
> board.
> I suspect there may be a short in the Tripp Lite.
> Suggestions please.
> TIA